Thursday, May 29, 2025

Edinburgh - Thursday, 5/29/2025

  • Royal Botanical Gardens
  • Water of Leith & St Bernard's Well 
  • Dean Village
  • La Plaza Bistro
  • The Georgian House
  • Edinburgh Castle (shut down!)
  • Royal Mile 
  • Rose Street Brewery

Walking today was probably a record for our trip - 9.5 miles!  I told Yelena that I could just walk with her back and forth to work everyday, moving forward, and we could keep up this level of activity. 

We started out this morning walking north to the Royal Botanical Gardens. It was about a mile from our suite, through mostly residential, urban area. We got a latte and croissant along the way. The garden is in a 70 acre area and access is free to the public.  Many, many species of trees, shrubs and plants, it's a peaceful break from the city hubbub. We wandered for about an hour, checking out different spots and resting at the on-site cafe.

We continued west, following along the Water of Leith, which is a river that flows  through the city of Edinburgh and exits into the bay at the Port of Leith. There is a very scenic walkway that follows along it's banks.  Very recommended!  We walked all the way west until reaching Dean Village, a scenic historical village previously mentioned by our distillery tour guide.  I thought Dean Village was less worthwhile than the hike to get there.  The village is scenic, I suppose, but small and not much to do once there.

So we started our hike back to the city center. I forgot to mention that when walking around the soccer fields west of the botanical gardens, we were nearly blown out feet.  The wind was incredibly strong.

We sat down to eat at La Plaza Bistro just on the walk back from Dean Village.  I had a brie and bacon sandwich, hoping to relive sandwich magic from a couple days ago, but it was not to be.  This one was a fine sandwich, but couldn't replicate the original. I did however have a "Sunshine" smoothie, which is basically all the fruits, blended with OJ.

While eating, we got an email from our castle reservation stating that our ticket was being refunded because they were closing the castle due to high winds. The castle is on top of a mountain, so I would imagine high winds could be very dangerous. As I mentioned before, we were nearly swept off our feet walking across a soccer area.

"The Georgian House" was not far from us after lunch, and on the city pass, so we stopped there next. It's a historical, preserved home from the 1800s, with dining, drawing room, kitchen, etc as it was over 200 years ago. The gist of it, unless you were the manor lord, life sucked!  Servants worked non-stop, in hot cramped quarters to supply the food and drink for the lord's frequent parties. It was very important to show off wealth through food, silverware, plate ware, etc. The house had VERY enthusiastic volunteers from a local historical society in every floor.  They were very kind and informative, but I was always edging toward a room exit as they told us about the next tray or toasting fork.

After the Georgian House, we returned to base to consider afternoon options. We decided to walk up to the castle anyway to see how close we could get.  The answer was "not very close at all" as they had the entire approach at the end of High Street closed (a couple hundred yards out). So we walked around outside, snapped some photos, and walked back down the Royal Mile. 

We decided to head back to Rose Street, in the new town side of things, for dinner. We opted for the Rose Street Brewery for dinner. Yelena had gnocchi and I had sausage, haggis blended, and mash. AND, a sticky toffee pudding for dessert. Why did I wait until our last night in the UK to start getting pudding? Yum.

Back home and packing for the run trip tomorrow. 






























Edinburgh - Wednesday, 5/28/2025

  • Harry Potter Walking Tour
  • Filling Station
  • Lex Meetup
  • Hidden Vaults Walking Tour
  • John Knox House
  • Cafe Anduluz
  • Lex Concert - Greyfriars Kirk
  • Royal Mile Tavern 

We had a leisurely morning before setting out for the Harry Potter Walking Tour at 10 am.  We met up when our charismatic guide Kieran at the National Museum of Scotland (tourist tip, it's the best place to use clean and easily accessible restrooms). We were sorted into houses, Yelena to Ravenclaw, me to Gryffindor. The tour of about 20 folks (mix of kids and adults) took two hours, visiting places where JK Rowling used actual locations or was inspired when writing the Harry Potter books. Kieran did a great job with the young kids and kept us all engaged and entertained with a trivia game as we walked. On the tour... The grave of Tom Riddell (Riddle), Heriot's School (inspiration for Hogwarts), the grassy location where Cedric dies, Victoria St (Diagon Alley), JK Rowlings handprints on Edinburgh's walk of fame. Ravenclaw (Yelena's team) won the trivia.  Me and three other old guys made a horrible Team Gryffindor. There was a young girl on our side that scored our only points. Kieran's Instagram post with our photo:


We had a quick lunch at appropriately named "Filling Station." The food was fine. It was restaurant themed around American Auto racing, I guess?  It was located between our tours. No other reason for going there.  Yelena had a chicken salad and I had a chicken bacon avocado sandwich. 

Lex texted us during lunch and said he was free for about an hour and could walk down to us.  His group was setting up at the church.  We met on the street corner in front of the national museum and chatted for a few minutes.  Lex was exploring with a couple of friends.   We kept it brief because our next walking tour was imminent.
 
That next tour was the "Underground Vaults Tour" and our guide was an odd, prickly Scott named Lisa with an explosive halo of black curly hair with gray streaks. She first  made clear she didn't want anyone standing next to her, and certainly not behind her. She also didn't want anyone to photograph her, and no video or audio recordings. Quite the opposite of friendly Kieran.  She was full of dramatic pauses and loud exclamations, obviously an actor. As she led us through the witch trial locations, I thought to myself, "Our Lisa is quite obviously a Scottish witch." 

The vaults are built under South Bridge.  There are about 120 of them and they were originally used for storage, taverns and housing for the poor. The were abandoned because they are constructed of limestone, which of course is very pourus, so everything in them was quickly damp and rotted. Very poorly conceived. Now they are used for tours and are rented out by Wiccans, of course for witchcraft ceremonies.

After the tour wrapped up, we wandered down to the John Knox house, a preserved house from the 1600s. John Knox was a founder of the protestant Church of Scotland and profoundly uptight woman-hater.  He was surely active in the aforementioned witch persecutions, but maybe most famous for his public tirades against Mary Queen of Scots. His feelings clear in one of his  writings, "The First Blast of the Trumpet Against the Monstruous Regiment of Women." Mary was eventually beheaded (by her cousin, Queen Elizabeth). That would have 'ol fuddy duddy John Knox dancing a jig. But by that time, he had already died of old age.  How typical for the age - strong women were accused of being witches, or had their heads cut off, or both; while their accusers died of old age.

For dinner, we had tapas at Cafe Anduluz. Chicken, haddock, prawns, black pudding, poached eggs, meatballs. It was quite the spread. 

Next was Lex's concert. We had the chance to meet up with him again beforehand. We walked him thru the Harry Potter stuff that was right around the Kirk while eating gelato. His orchestra played from the Mississippi Suite by Grofe, The Lark Ascending by Williams, Symphony #9 by Dvorak and the Firebird by Stravinsky.  This time we also stuck around for the Jazz Band, who played songs by Benny Carter, Joe Henderson and a couple of Sinatra classics - "Something's Gotta Give" and "That's Life." They brought along a vocalist for those tunes.

We said goodbye to Lex after the concerts and had a night cap at The Royal Mile Tavern. More local live music.